Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
